Up and down hills and stairs, through sidestreets that barely, but convincingly, straddle cars, past garbage piled on corners, over the endless piles of shit filling in the cracks in the cobblestones, the cracks in the soles of our shoes. We walked ceaselessly across Lisbon. There was always more to see, [...]

I’m going to dispense with chronology, otherwise I’ll never put this stuff up. So let’s start in the middle.

Porto was our first stop in Portugal.  Our first impression was that we were no longer in Madrid – and that meant that things could only improve. But once we reached the [...]

Well, here it comes. Rain outside my window. Tomato and grape farmers, picking for hours before the sun even rose, are scrambling to pull the harvest off the vines before the rains can rob the fruit of all the hope they put on their crops. And with the harvest and the rain, autumn [...]